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By: Tom Sietsema

Seeing double is cause for applause when the subject is Jonathan Krinn and Jason Maddens, chefs who ditched the fine-dining scene for a neighborhood place but never forgot where they came from. So your hamburger is shaped from dry-aged designer beef, and appetizers include foie gras with brioche. (And the cocktails are ace.) Just to be clear, this spot welcomes locals; main courses average an agreeable $20. My cheat sheet would start with meaty mussels flavored with tomatoes, lamb sausage and goat cheese and continue with caramelized scallops, each sweet morsel waving a sail of smoky pancetta. Make the first course rabbit ballotine ringed in berry sauce and the entree lamb shoulder hit with harissa. Ordering dinner is as hard as picking favorites among your own kids. What’s simple is knowing where to sit: the kitchen counter and the chance to watch a couple of stars doing what they do best.